Troy Oshimo: How to celebrate New Year’s Eve in Japan

BY TROY OSHIMO / Kalamalama Staff

As the clock struck midnight on New Year’s Eve 2022, I found myself surrounded by crowds of people in the bustling streets of Tokyo, Japan.

It was a sight to see, as I’d always wanted to spend New Year’s Eve in this vibrant and exciting city.

But the journey to get there had been quite spontaneous.

In late May, I heard that Hawaiian airlines, Zip Air, and Japan Airlines had opened flights to and from Japan again, after the country had closed its borders to tourists due to the COVID-19 pandemic. I knew this was my chance to finally visit Japan again, as I had been there a few times before with friends.

When I saw the ticket prices in October, I couldn’t believe my luck. Round-trip tickets were selling for around $700 to $800, which was a 50% discount from pre-pandemic prices!

I quickly booked my tickets for late December to early January, and before I knew it, I was boarding a plane bound for Tokyo.

OSECHI BOX

One of the first things we did on New Year’s Eve was pick up an Osechi box, a two-layered bento box filled with traditional Japanese New Year’s foods. These boxes are said to bring luck, prosperity, and good health for the new year, and they’re a must-have for any local celebrating the occasion.

We made sure to arrive at the bento vendor early, as the lines for Osechi boxes can get quite long.

Osechi Boxes; various savory and sweet items (Courtesy Troy Oshimo)

With our Osechi boxes in hand, my friends and I set off to experience the famous Shibuya Crossing New Year’s Eve Countdown. This event is like Tokyo’s version of New York City’s Times Square, where thousands of people crowd into the streets to watch the countdown on the big screens attached to the buildings.

We decided to kill some time before the countdown by going out for yakiniku (Japanese grilled meat) and karaoke. We ordered raw slices of meat to grill ourselves at the table, and it was delicious. The cost per person was around $17, which was quite reasonable compared to Hawai’i.

After that, we headed to Joystick Karaoke, located just across the Shibuya station. We sang and drank for around two hours, at a cost of around $39 per person.

SHIBUYA CROSSING NEW YEAR’S EVE COUNTDOWN

As the clock approached 11:30 p.m., we made our way to Shibuya crossing to find a good spot to view the countdown.

However, due to strict COVID rules, there was a heavy police presence trying to force people back into the train stations to head home. Officials even went as far as turning off all the big screens attached to the buildings and shouting over a megaphone that the countdown would not happen.

Despite this, many people stayed put, determined to see in the new year in the heart of Tokyo.

As midnight approached, the crowd began counting down from 10, and the energy was electric.

I couldn’t help but feel a sense of disappointment that the countdown was not what I had expected, but I knew I would still be able to experience the traditional Japanese New Year’s Eve in my own way. It was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity that I will cherish forever.

MEIJI JINGU SHRINE

New Year’s Day in Tokyo is an experience like no other.

The traditional Hatsumode visit to a Shinto shrine to pray for good luck and prosperity is a must-do for any traveler, and I had the opportunity to experience this first-hand. 

As the sun began to rise on New Year’s Day, I woke up early to catch a glimpse of the first sunrise of the year from our Airbnb balcony. The vibrant colors of the sky were a sight to behold, and it set the tone for the rest of the day.

My friends and I then made our way to the Meiji Jingu shrine, located next to the Harajuku station. This shrine is one of the biggest in Japan and is similar to Central Park in New York City, as it sits in the middle of a big city.

The Meiji Jingu is surrounded by a thick forest of trees and bamboo, and the pathway to the shrine is large. However, we soon realized that we weren’t the only ones with the same idea and we ended up waiting in line for around three hours until we could enter the shrine to pray and wish for good luck.

But it was worth the wait.

Once inside, we observed the Japanese locals tossing a five-yen coin at the prayer area, as it is believed that this coin, called “go-en”, signifies helping people find what the Universe has in store for them.

Many also ended up buying Omamori charms for good fortune, as there are various charms each with different good fortune sayings.

Meiji Jingu Entrance (Courtesy Troy Oshimo)

FESTIVAL FOOD

One of the best parts of the visit to the Meiji Jingu was the Japanese festival food stalls lined up outside the shrine.

From Yakisoba noodles to Takoyaki, Okonomiyaki, Ikayaki, Yakitori, Taiyaki, Tanghulu, and Dango, there were so many options to choose from.

The best part is that they came in small portions, so we could try an abundance of different foods.

Dango; bit size mochi on skewers covered in a savory syrup (Courtesy Troy Oshimo)
Tanghulu; bite sized fruit covered in a hard sugar syrup on a skewer (Courtesy Troy Oshimo)

From the bustling streets of Shibuya crossing to the serene Meiji Jingu and the delicious festival foods, it’s definitely worth visiting Japan during for New Year’s Eve. The culture, food, and traditions will create lasting memories.

I know that I will be going back again in the future, and I highly recommend that you do too.

When you plan your next trip to Japan, think about going during the new year to experience the different cultures, food, and traditions that this beautiful country has to offer. Although the traditional New Year’s Eve celebration in Tokyo was affected by the pandemic, it was still a unique and unforgettable experience for me.

From picking up an Osechi box to Shibuya Crossing, the first sunrise of 2023, Meiji Jingu Shrine and festival food, it was the perfect blend of tradition and today. And while it may have been spontaneous, I’m glad I took the opportunity to make this trip happen.

Troy Oshimo is a senior at Hawaii Pacific University studying business marketing and management. Follow him on Instagram at @troy.oshimo.

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